HAI DOUZO… SAKE! (Here ya go…Sake)

Bagsofrice

If I read one more book, article or blog on Japanese sake my
head is going to explode.  I didn’t know
a thing about sake before agreeing to write this story for Edible Sacramento, but I figured a wine writer can write on rice
wine, right (lol–say that phrase 3x fast).  See, I’d had sake with sushi rolls, maybe
four times, both warm and cold so I thought ‘what the heck—sake, no problem’.  Now you can see why there haven’t been many blog posts of late….I have been inundated learning about sake!

Well right out of the box during preliminary research I was
humbled to learn sake isn’t even a wine (uh-oh), and, I guess traditionally, you’re
not supposed to drink it while eating any rice products (oops), 0 for 2!  I’m sure you’ve been there before:  you’re trying to learn about something you are
completely unfamiliar with, and essentially, your brain thinks it’s reading a
foreign language.  Well, with sake, that
is literally so.  Not only is there an
entire scientific process of production that I needed to understand, but so
many terms used to describe said production, as well as the classification
system of sake, are all in Japanese,
a language I know nothing about.   In
addition, because there is ancient history and tradition associated with the
consumption of sake that too, adds to the complexity of the subject, not to
mention that information on this topic can be vague or at times conflicting.  Suffice it to say, I quickly realized I had
better backtrack and start this culinaryesque journey where all such local
journeys begin, with Darrell Corti.

Most long-time Sacramentans, and many people worldwide for
that matter, know that this star of the grocery world has significant expertise
in the realms of wine, olive oil and imported international food products.  But I was surprised to learn that Mr. Corti is
also a world renowned non-Japanese expert on sake.  As a matter of fact, his knowledge on the
history, tradition, production and quality of sake is encyclopedic.  For the last 10 years, Darrell has taken part
in the Joy of Sake, an annual tasting competition of Japanese sake held in
Hawaii.  He is one of a very few
non-Japanese judges to participate and is well versed in the finer aspects of
tasting and appreciating this rice beverage.
For our interview, Darrell took me behind the scenes at Corti Brothers
on Folsom Boulevard in East Sac to educate me on the world of sake.  Thanks to this gracious and proper gentleman,
I know quite a bit more about sake these days.
For an hour and a half I was basically treated to an advanced beginning/intermediate
course in sake.  Mr. Corti taught me
fermentology, discussing all of the important steps in the sake brewing
process, he taught me sake appreciation, discussing the quality levels of sake
and its characteristic aromas and flavors.
He covered cultural anthropology by teaching me the history and
traditions of Japanese sake customs.  In
essence, he was my sensei, and I am
grateful.

What also helped to clarify some of the mysteries of sake was
taking a tour of the local Gekkeikan factory in Folsom.  Vice President of Production William Piper
led me and my trusty side-kick, photographer Penny Sylvia (www.pennysylvia.com) through this state
of the art sake brewery. Penny took the great shots included in this post!  Gekkeikan, a
nearly 400-yr old company in Fushimi, selected Folsom as its first western outpost
based upon its access to high quality rice from the Sacramento Valley and its access
to good sake water.  Fushimi, which
is in the Kyoto prefecture, and in the Kinki sake brewing region, is the second
greatest area of Japan in terms of sake production.  The water of Fushimi is soft with a low mineral
content, a combination known to produce fine sake.  In Folsom, the local water, which originates
in the Sierra Nevada, is also soft, and provides everything Gekkeikan needs to
make traditional sake.  The production is
pretty impressive and includes bags, bags and more bags of rice, labs,
steamers, pipes, fermentation tanks, aging tanks, bottling lines, loading
docks, tasting facilities and even a palate loading robot.  I was particularly charmed by a sign I kept
seeing throughout the brewery on many pieces of equipment,  the Japanese characters were a traditional
prayer to the sake god.

First and foremost, sake is not technically a wine; it is
closer to a beer.  Wines are made from
fruits that contain natural sugars that in the presence of yeast ferment into
alcohol and a bit of CO2.  That process
is called fermentation.  Sake is made
from grain, specifically, rice.  Grains
contain starches, and thusly sugars, but those sugars can’t be utilized for
fermentation until they are released from the starch.  An added enzyme is needed to break down that
starch into simple sugar molecules that will undergo fermentation once put in
contact with yeast.  This breakdown of
starches into sugars by enzymatic action is called saccharification.   We
commonly associate saccharification with the brewing of beer, malt being the
enzyme that breaks down the barley to release the sugars so that later, alcohol
fermentation
can take place.
Sakepolishedrice

Sake takes its slight turn from beer brewing, in that unlike
beer; saccharification does not occur first, followed by fermentation, in sake,
the two processes occur simultaneously in what is termed a “multiple parallel
fermentation”.    Another big difference is that the enzyme used
in sake production to break down the rice starch isn’t malt, its koji-kin.

Koji-kin is cool,
so cool; I’m thinking it would be a good name for a tiny dog.   It’s actually a mold called aspergillus oryzae
that gets sprinkled onto steamed rice (koji-kin
 + steamed rice is referred to as koji ) so that the mold can burrow all
the way to the center starchy portion of each grain, breaking the starch into
the simple sugars that the yeast will use in fermentation.  This is one of the most critical steps in the
sake making process as the koji is
very temperamental, the rice and mold requiring precise conditions to bloom and
infiltrate each rice grain.  It takes
years of experience and clever intuition to understand how to get the koji just right.  Koji is
a big contributor to any sake’s flavor profile and successful mold propagation is
just one of the many responsibilities of the person who oversees sake
production, the specially trained brewmaster called the toji.

In the sake brewery, while koji is being prepared, yeast is also being cultivated to get ready
for potential use in the next batch of sake.
Yeast is taken from the vats of successful batches of sake and cultured
in a lab.  As in winemaking, there are
many different strains of yeast, each bringing different flavors and aromas to
the finished product.  Selections are
made by the toji to ensure the
desired flavors and aromas of a particular sake are achieved.   Once the exact specifications of both yeast
and koji have been met the multiple
parallel fermentation process begins.

First, a yeast starter called shubo or moto is created using a new batch of steamed rice, water, koji, and the specially selected yeast
cells called kobo.  Sometimes lactic acid is added to soften the
texture.  This shubo percolates away anywhere from 1.5 to 2 weeks, with the yeast
cells multiplying and the slurry foaming away.
The next step is to move the shubo
into a large fermentation tank where it’s a bit of a redoux:  add more steamed rice, add more water, add
more koji, all done in three stages
over four days.  This new liquid, called moromi, is both fermenting and
saccharifying while it continues to double in size with each successive
addition.  The moromi stays in this tank for about a month.  When the sake is determined to be just right,
it is pressed through an accordion-like machine to separate the clear liquid
from the white lees (yeast residue) and unfermented solids.  In some traditional breweries, the moromi is placed into large canvas bags
and the sake is squeezed out.  If the
sake is not squeezed out of the bags, but left to drip out in a “free run”
process, that resultant sake is called shizuku.   Gekkeikan
uses one of the accordion-like devices and the lees and solids (spent grains)
remaining after the press, called kasu, are
collected and recycled as feed extender for local cattle and pigs.  I was actually there on a day when a cattle
farmer from Wilton arrived to pick up the kasu.  Apparently, there is quite a bit of protein
and some interesting flavor left in the material.  Even Mr. Piper has reused the byproduct
himself wrapping trout in rehydrated strips before cooking, a practice not
uncommon in Japan.

After the sake sits a few days and solids settle out, it is
charcoal filtered to manipulate flavor and coloring and then heat pasteurized through
piping for stability.  There are some
types of sake that are unfiltered (nigori)
and others unpasteurized (namazake).  As one would expect, unpasteurized namazake requires refrigeration.  After these processes, most sake is aged up
to about six months.  Some special sakes
are aged for a few years; they are called koshu,
meaning ‘old sake’ and are reminiscent of sherry. Some other styles of sake
include kimoto and yamahai, both of which involve
specialized brewing techniques and wild yeasts which result in eccentric,
gamier, umami-laden sakes. These sakes tend to have more of a wine-like flavor
profile.  When aging is completed, most sake
is typically blended with water to bring the alcohol level down.  Sake normally ferments to about 20% alcohol; blending
typically dilutes it down to somewhere near 15%.  Sake which is undiluted is sold as genshu.
Once blended, most sake is re-pasteurized, bottled and shipped.
Sakebottlingline

In discussing the
production process we’ve learned how water, koji
and yeast can all impart their influence on the flavors aromas and quality
of sake, but there is another major influence, and I’ve saved its discussion
for last….it’s the rice.  It can be presumed,
of course, that rice variety affects the final product, but even more
importantly it’s something called the rice polishing ratio that really makes
the difference.  Sake’s quality
designation is a reflection of its rice polish ratio, and this ratio is the
amount of milling the rice receives to remove the outer layers of the
grain.  Those outer layers contain
proteins, lipids and amino acids that provide unwanted flavors and aromas to
sake.  The ultra-premium sakes (daiginjo) use rice where 50% or less of
the original grain remains after polishing, this category subdivides even more as
the best of the best mill down to 40% or even 30%.  Premium sake (ginjo) has a polish ratio of 60% or less.  Occupying the lowest end of quality sakes are junmai and honjozo;  both have a polish
ratio of 70% or less.

Understanding the classification system for sake can be
confusing, but here is a very basic chart to help you out.  These terms are important to become familiar
with because if you want to purchase sake in the store, you are going to need
to understand some of the information you’ll see on the bottle.  Note that most of these words can also end in
the suffix –shu , which just means
‘alcohol’, and the quality sakes can be further classified with many descriptive
Japanese adjectives like those mentioned above (daiginjo, ginjo, nigori, koshu, etc.).  You might also see the word tokebetsu which is generic for ‘special’
and can pretty much mean anything.

Now test yourself:  if a
sake was listed as a Junmai genshu
daiginjo, Hyogo prefecture
what is it?
Yes, you’re right; it’s all natural, undiluted and ultra-premium (50% or
less polish ratio) from the Hyogo Prefecture in Japan!  Sometimes you’ll spot a label with a Sake
Meter Value.  The numbers usually range
from a +15 (dry) to a -15 (sweet); a sake valued at 0 is considered
neutral.

So let’s talk about why you should be drinking sake.  For one, it’s become very in vogue in
restaurants across the country.  In San
Francisco one of the current premier dining spots, Quince,  has a small Sake & Crudo Menu with
pairings like “Steelhead gravlax with persimmon, radish and garlic chive with
Tedorgawa Kinka, Nama Daiginjo, Ishika Prefecture “.  In addition, they offer three sakes by the
glass.  Here in Sacramento, I found an
impressive sake menu at Kru in Midtown.  With
approximately 25 bottles available, and offerings by the glass (4 cold and 1
hot), this is the place to experiment locally.
Bottles of different sizes range in price from $8 – $150 and are
available in a number of styles and from a variety of Japanese regions.  I like that the menu is categorized by rice
polishing ratio.  Visit the Edible website soon www.ediblecommunities.com/sacramento for tasting notes from my visit to Kru and Gekkeikan.  When tasting, it is best to drink from the top
down (daiginjo-ginjo-junmai/honjozo)
so that the delicacy of the higher qualities aren’t lost.  Another reason you should be drinking sake is
that it doesn’t fight with food.  Junmai with its rich, heavy body pairs
well with foods that typically like red wines.
A rich aged sake like juyondai  from the Yamagata prefecture is a perfect
match for savory seafood like crab, and most
ginjo
shu (see, I added the
suffix for the heck of it) and daiginjo-shu   like
raw or seared fish and light foods like vegetables or chicken.  Darrell Corti finds ginjo-shu to be an interesting accompaniment to both Roquefort
cheese and smoked meats.

Why not drink sake and be a local trend setter.  The market for premium sake has grown and
exports to the U.S. have broken records in the last few years.  One well-known sake expert, John Gaunter, who has a great, info-filled website on sake (www.sake-world.com) says
“there is no bad sake on the market, and even the worst is pretty good”.  Like wine, sake has a variety of flavors and
aromas, with something to suit everyone’s palate.  One of my friends loves the milky white nigori while another can’t get enough of
the cheap hot sake at her local Japanese restaurant.  A fun option I’ve found is sparkling sake.  Gekkeikan imports something called Zipang,
which is a naturally carbonated junmai
sake that is sweet and refreshingly light at 7% alcohol/volume.   It is sold in local Asian markets like Oto’s.   Another brand, Sake2me, is infused with
Asian flavors like yuzu, ginger and Asian pear.
I’ve seen this on the menu at Mix and it’s usually on the shelf at
Raleys.

If you are ready to dip your toe in, know that premium sake
is best served slightly chilled as warming it can ruin the complexity of aromas
and flavors. Ordinary table sake, futsushu
can be served at room temperature or slightly warm, as can kimoto and yamahai sakes.  If you’d like
to really get your traditional Japanese on, ask for your slightly warmed sake to
be served in the pouring vessel called a tokkuri,
and be sure to drink it out of a tiny porcelain cup called a guinomi or choko.  Ancient custom gently demands one never pour
for oneself, unless drinking alone.  One
picks up the tokkuri and offers to
pour for their friend, who should always be holding the choko in their hand.  There
is also a custom of drinking sake from another’s cup; if you want to whoop it
up with your pals, the one considered more junior asks their senior to “please
allow me to drink from your cup”, the senior downs the filled cup and passes it
to the junior, it gets refilled and slugged back by the junior who fills it
again and passes it back, completing the exchange.  This can go on and on until everyone is,
well, drunk, and that’s ok according to the book The History and Culture of
Japanese Food
, because ancient Japanese practice reminds us that becoming
intoxicated from the same cup is a means of establishing solidarity.  And with that, my friends, I leave you with
one final term from my Japanese journey, Kanpai,
which not surprisingly means cheers!

Related articles

Outside the Box: Randall Graham and Bonny Doon
How to Identify Yeast Flavors in Beer: Wild Yeast and Bacteria
Advertisements

2 thoughts on “HAI DOUZO… SAKE! (Here ya go…Sake)

  1. With havin so much written content do you ever run into any problems of plagorism or copyright infringement?
    My blog has a lot of completely unique content I’ve either written myself or outsourced but it seems a lot
    of it is popping it up all over the internet without my agreement.
    Do you know any solutions to help prevent content from being stolen?

    I’d certainly appreciate it.

    • As a writer yourself, I see you understand the issue of ‘borrowed’ material. I don’t spend a lot of time worrying about it at this point. I figure if someone were to plagiarize my work, that speaks to their issues…and karma catches up with everybody 😉 Cheers!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s